Time and context

Timeline

Events, periods and change connected to the objects and sources in the knowledge base.

Dated events and periods

214
2026
John Berger: Ways of Seeing, Art and Politics

For Berger's centenary, the British Library is preparing a new public phase of the archive: a display drawn from the John Berger Archive is scheduled from 28 August 2026 to 5 February 2027, while Tom Overton's new biography John Berger: From Life follows in September.

Why Dazed and i-D Matter Beyond Youth Magazines

In 2026 Dazed exists simultaneously as a print magazine, Dazed Digital, social channels, international editorial nodes, Dazed 100, Dazed Studio, Dazed Club and an events programme. Dazed Media's official structure makes the move from publisher to network of editorial, commercial and community formats explicit.

Why Dazed and i-D Matter Beyond Youth Magazines

i-D states this almost literally in The Lore Issue through the phrase anti-algorithmic behaviour. Dazed, meanwhile, continues print issues in 2026 while maintaining a constant digital stream, international channels and live events. The models differ, but both attempt to preserve an editorial frame in an environment where publication itself is no longer scarce.

Why Dazed and i-D Matter Beyond Youth Magazines

Because they built not an age-defined product but an infrastructure of visibility. i-D turned personal identity, street style and gesture into editorial document; Dazed turned cultural conflict, interdisciplinarity and talent discovery into a production method. In 2026 both already operate as multi-format media systems, yet their value still depends on an old skill: seeing what has not yet proven its popularity.

The Magazine Is No Longer Paper

The printed issue has not disappeared: Issue #49 "MEMPHIS" is the Summer 2026 edition. The simultaneity is what matters. 032c did not simply "move" from magazine to clothing or gallery. It made different carriers work as parts of one editorial world.

The Magazine Is No Longer Paper

Vogue World moves further. It turns an editorial name into a live event and broadcast: physical space, performance, clothing, celebrities, partners and a digital audience gather around the magazine brand. Vogue World: Milano is scheduled for 22 September 2026 as the next edition of that event series.

Ray Petri: Buffalo Styling and New Masculinity

In August 2026 Anthem Press published Georgina Ripley’s Ray Petri in the Fashion Auteurs series. The study frames Buffalo through subcultural style, diversity, gender politics, masculinity, queer context and influence on contemporary practitioners. The existence of a dedicated monograph marks a shift: the stylist is now treated as a subject of history rather than a footnote to photographer or magazine.

Why a Fashion House Now Resembles a TV Network

At Louis Vuitton, broadcast logic is visible in the infrastructure of the show itself. The Fashion Shows section inside Louis Vuitton Magazine stores a continuing stream of men’s and women’s shows, while individual pages offer a full recording alongside the looks. New 2026 shows keep entering the system as new instalments.

Why a Fashion House Now Resembles a TV Network

Prada Films maintains a distinct archive of short works, from Thunder Perfect Mind and A Therapy to Past Forward and Re-Nylon. Prada Frames works differently, building a programme around design, environment and critical conversation; in 2026 it reached its fifth edition. One house can therefore act at once as advertiser, producer, archivist and organiser of cultural discourse.

Why a Fashion House Now Resembles a TV Network

Open Pradasphere in 2026 and Fashion Shows sits beside Campaigns, Special Projects, Events, Films and Places; the current feed connects collections with Prada Mode, Prada Frames, collaborations and other projects. This is no longer the structure of a single advertisement. It resembles an editorial hub with several recurring formats.

Visionaire: The Magazine That Refused to Be a Magazine

As of 2026 Visionaire officially describes itself as an experiential agency rooted in limited-edition publishing and now working across public art, film, immersive and interactive experiences, branded content and art multiples. At the same time its site retains the edition archive, shop and the label Visionaire Publishing 2026.

Visionaire: The Magazine That Refused to Be a Magazine

This evolution is especially clear in Glass Handel. In spring 2026 the project was presented in Madrid at Teatro Real as part of Bloomberg CityLab; Cecilia Dean and James Kaliardos described it through the same logic that once structured an issue of Visionaire: invited artists, filmmakers, choreographers and designers receive room for independent interpretation while the audience becomes part of a moving composition.

2025
Why Dazed and i-D Matter Beyond Youth Magazines

After a pause, i-D returned to print in 2025 under editor-in-chief Thom Bettridge and by 2026 again connects a physical issue with a website, shop, archive, Substack channel and separate print experiments. Spring 2026 issue 376, The Lore Issue, explicitly framed itself around anti-algorithmic behaviour, while April brought i-D Beauty's first print zine.

The Magazine Is No Longer Paper

This is not proof that a magazine brand is immortal. Pauses, ownership changes and stopped production reveal the fragility of the model. But they also expose a strange property of the contemporary magazine: cultural capital can outlive a particular production cycle. The Face archive already operates as museum history; the 2025 Culture Shift exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery turned past pages into a public cultural object in their own right.

Ray Petri: Buffalo Styling and New Masculinity

In 2025 Buffalo entered major museum and exhibition contexts. V&A projects used the archive within the history of Naomi Campbell and fashion culture, while the National Portrait Gallery gave Buffalo a prominent place in The Face Magazine: Culture Shift. Fast magazine images had become museum objects.

2024
The Magazine Is No Longer Paper

The physical extension is especially legible. 032c WORKSHOP opened in Berlin as a stand-alone retail venue in which an exhibition zone precedes the product area; the brand framed the relationship almost architecturally, placing culture in front and commerce behind. In 2024 it launched a permanent 032c Gallery with its own exhibition programme.

2020
Why a Fashion House Now Resembles a TV Network

In 2020 GucciFest offered another way to turn a fashion release into a media event. Ouverture of Something That Never Ended was structured as a seven-part film collaboration by Gus Van Sant and Alessandro Michele; Gucci Stories still holds individual pages from the first episode through the seventh and final one.

2019
2017
Visionaire: The Magazine That Refused to Be a Magazine

Limited editions, complex production and unusual materials turned Visionaire into a collectible object. Some issues exist in hundreds or thousands of copies; particular series were produced in even smaller numbers. In 2017 Visionaire 67 Fetish with Steven Klein appeared as a set of ten original colour C-prints in an edition of 200 numbered copies.

2016
2015
2014
2012
i-D

In 2012 i-D joined VICE, retaining its editorial importance as a platform for new voices and images.

2011
Why a Fashion House Now Resembles a TV Network

Miu Miu Women’s Tales makes the difference between campaign and programme especially clear. The official site describes it as the longest-running commissioning platform for female-led short films: more than fifteen years and more than thirty individual episodes, beginning in 2011.

Visionaire: The Magazine That Refused to Be a Magazine

In 2011 Visionaire released issue 61, Larger Than Life. Its deluxe edition measured roughly 57.5 by 79 inches - almost one and a half by two metres. This is no longer a magazine that can sit on your lap on a train. To see it, the reader needs floor or wall space, distance, time and often another pair of hands. Scale itself forces the body to behave differently.

2010
René Gruau: Line, Glamour and Fashion Illustration

Gruau continued to influence Dior after his death. Vogue has noted John Galliano’s direct engagement with his graphic language; the 2010–2011 Dior Illustrated exhibition returned the Gruau–Dior relationship to public view. In 2025 official Dior again included Gruau illustrations in Christian Dior: Jardins Rêvés.

2009
2007
2004
The Magazine Is No Longer Paper

The Face offers a more anxious example. The magazine closed in 2004 and was relaunched in 2019, then entered another institutional break. In May 2026 C86 announced that it had acquired The Face from Wasted Talent, while the current homepage says that The Face will return.

2000
The Magazine Is No Longer Paper

032c describes itself as a media and fashion company for the 21st century: the project began as a Berlin magazine in 2000 and now connects magazine publishing, ready-to-wear and cultural experiences. On its current site, Magazine, Store, 032c Readytowear and editorial categories exist side by side.

Ray Petri: Buffalo Styling and New Masculinity

By the 2000s Buffalo was already operating as a reference system for younger stylists, photographers and designers. Books, features and special magazine projects returned Petri to professional memory. In 2009 Arena Homme Plus revisited his legacy, reconnecting Jamie Morgan’s archive with current menswear culture.

1999
René Gruau: Line, Glamour and Fashion Illustration

By the end of the twentieth century institutions increasingly canonised Gruau, including exhibitions at the Musée du Costume / Palais Galliera and the Musée de la Publicité. Musée des Arts Décoratifs links him to the opening of the new advertising museum space in 1999.

1996
Visionaire: The Magazine That Refused to Be a Magazine

Visionaire 18: Fashion Special Louis Vuitton, published in 1996, was the project's first full Fashion Special. RISD records loose sheets, a specially designed Louis Vuitton leather portfolio made for the monogram centenary, and an enormous contributor list spanning designers, photographers and artists.

1994
1992
1991
Why Dazed and i-D Matter Beyond Youth Magazines

The first Dazed was even more radical in defining its role. The four-page 1991 issue called itself not a magazine and spoke of "urban ideas for creative people." Within a few years that attitude became an editorial method: fashion, music, art, politics and photography could collide in the same issue because culture itself did not arrive in clean departmental boxes.

Visionaire: The Magazine That Refused to Be a Magazine

Visionaire 01: Innocent: Spring appeared in 1991 in a numbered edition of one thousand. RISD describes a mixture of loose sheets and small volumes, vellum and multiple papers; the publishers later recalled using printer remnants so that pages deliberately did not share the same stock. Bill Cunningham contributed an early fashion report.

1990
Why Dazed and i-D Matter Beyond Youth Magazines

Without photographic language, both projects would have been far less influential. i-D built an archive of faces, bodies and gestures in which the cover, straight-up and fashion story became evidence of changing ideas of beauty and normality. Dazed developed its own visual scene in the 1990s through Rankin and a widening network of later photographers, stylists and art directors.

1989
Ray Petri: Buffalo Styling and New Masculinity

Ray Petri died in 1989 from AIDS-related illness. Contemporary museum and scholarly accounts rightly place his work against the crisis that devastated queer communities while reshaping public discussion around the body, sexuality, fear and solidarity.

1988
1987
1986
1985
Ray Petri: Buffalo Styling and New Masculinity

1985 became Buffalo’s period of greatest concentration. Many images later treated as canonical were made then or close to that moment: The Face issue 59, the Felix Howard stories, early Naomi Campbell images, Nick Kamen portraits, Jamie Morgan’s black-and-white photography and Petri’s radical combinations.

Ray Petri: Buffalo Styling and New Masculinity

In 2025 Jamie Morgan published 1985 Buffalo from rediscovered contact sheets, negatives and known images. The form of the archive is itself important: it shows variation, not just icons, making it possible to see how a face, pose and garment combination moves through several decisions before becoming a magazine image.

1981
1980
Why Dazed and i-D Matter Beyond Youth Magazines

i-D officially describes itself as a voice of identity, style and culture that grew out of punk-era London in 1980 with a commitment to emerging talent. Dazed describes itself today as an independent fashion, culture and arts publisher operating across print, online, social channels, campaigns and events.

Why Dazed and i-D Matter Beyond Youth Magazines

London, 1980. The first issues of i-D did not wait for readers to enter a major bookstore: Terry Jones recalled leaving copies in King's Road fashion shops, Kensington Market, Camden Lock and record stores such as Rough Trade. Eleven years later, the first Dazed & Confused was assembled in the corridors of the London College of Printing as a four-page handmade publication, almost a pamphlet, declaring: "This is not a magazine."

i-D

i-D emerged in London in 1980 as an independent magazine about style and youth culture.

Ray Petri: Buffalo Styling and New Masculinity

In the early 1980s the stylist was not yet as institutionally visible as the role is today. Research into styling history shows that selecting, combining and organising clothes had long existed under other names: fashion editing, editorial preparation or assistant work. V&A Dundee explicitly connects Petri’s legacy with the emergence of the fashion stylist as a central creative role.

Ray Petri: Buffalo Styling and New Masculinity

The Face, i-D and Arena gave Petri a space in which risky styling could exist before the market recognised it as commercially safe. Mainstream fashion photography remained comparatively formalised, while new style magazines could place music, clubs, street life, photography and fashion on the same page.

Ray Petri: Buffalo Styling and New Masculinity

Buffalo repeatedly joined sportswear to tailoring: tracksuits with brogues, MA-1 jackets with Levi’s, Armani suits with Dr. Martens. High-low styling is now so normal that its original friction is difficult to recover. In the mid-1980s these combinations damaged the clean boundary between street, sport and luxury.

Ray Petri: Buffalo Styling and New Masculinity

Petri worked with signs connected to reggae, Rastafari, Native American imagery, military history, cowboy mythology and other cultural systems. In the 1980s such eclecticism was often read as anti-hierarchical and anti-racist, allowing references excluded from fashion establishment to occupy the same image.

Ray Petri: Buffalo Styling and New Masculinity

Many of the best-known Buffalo pictures are black and white and carry associations with gangster films, westerns, documentary photography and classical portraiture. This places 1980s clothing inside a much longer visual history, helping the photographs outlive the season in which the garments were current.

1975
Polly Mellen: Risk, Discipline and the Fashion Editor as Co-Author

18. Май 1975 как редакционный эксперимент: два конфликта в одном выпуске Condé Nast corporate photography director Ivan Shaw called the simultaneous publication of the Bathhouse and The Story of Ohhh… an extraordinary feat and linked it to Mellen’s courage.

1973
1972
John Berger: Ways of Seeing, Art and Politics

Ways of Seeing was broadcast by the BBC in January 1972 as four television programmes created by Berger with producer-director Mike Dibb and other collaborators. The British Library describes the series as addressing both the Western canon of art history and contemporary consumer culture.

John Berger: Ways of Seeing, Art and Politics

In 1972 Berger's novel G. won the Booker Prize. He immediately transformed the literary award into a critical act: in his acceptance speech he examined the economic history of Booker McConnell and argued that the prize had to be turned against itself.

John Berger: Ways of Seeing, Art and Politics

The danger in Berger's legacy is turning an anti-canonical book into a new canon quoted without testing. Ways of Seeing was made in a specific Britain of 1972, worked largely with Western European imagery and compressed differences for the clarity of a television argument.

1970
Grace Coddington: Fashion Editor, Narrative Image-Making and Hidden Authorship

Working alongside Helmut Newton, Guy Bourdin and other powerful authors of the 1970s taught Coddington that provocative imagery requires more, not less, editorial control. Photographers could be erotic, severe, theatrical or absurd, while the fashion editor still had to keep clothing and editorial purpose legible inside their visual language.

Dieter Rams: Less but Better and Industrial Design

During the 1970s Rams began formulating what later became known as the Ten Principles for Good Design. Vitra Design Museum connects them to a criticism of consumerism and to the desire to define design goals beyond permanent stimulation of novelty.

Ray Petri: Buffalo Styling and New Masculinity

By the mid-1970s Petri was back in Britain and working around antiques and vintage goods at Camden Passage. This stage matters because his understanding of dress developed through found objects outside the current collection: an old jacket, used suit or accessory with a previous life could carry more character than a complete seasonal look.

1968
1967
Panton Chair

Verner Panton and Herman Miller/Vitra present the world's first single-piece plastic chair in 1967.

1966
John Berger: Ways of Seeing, Art and Politics

In 1966 Berger spent several months with country doctor John Sassall in the Forest of Dean. A Fortunate Man, published in 1967, combined Berger's writing with Jean Mohr's photographs. Canongate stresses that the book explores both one doctor and the social fabric of a community.

1964
1962
John Berger: Ways of Seeing, Art and Politics

In 1962 Berger left Britain and spent most of the rest of his life in continental Europe, principally in France and Switzerland. The Booker Prize Foundation describes the move as a permanent departure from Britain.

Dieter Rams: Less but Better and Industrial Design

The 620 Chair Programme of 1962 works as a kit of interchangeable parts. A single chair can become a sofa, a low back can become a high back, and bases can be exchanged. Vitsœ still makes it as a modular system.

1961
René Gruau: Line, Glamour and Fashion Illustration

Gruau also worked for stage culture through posters, costume and theatrical projects. Musée des Arts Décoratifs records, among other projects, La Belle de Paris in 1961 and his wider involvement with performance imagery.

Dieter Rams: Less but Better and Industrial Design

Rams was appointed head of product design at Braun in 1961. From this point the task was not simply to design individual appliances but to sustain a common language across many categories. Braun lists him as Head of Design from 1961 to 1995; Vitsœ records his retirement from Braun in 1997, probably reflecting the distinction between title and final departure.

1960
Dieter Rams: Less but Better and Industrial Design

Audio 1 from the early 1960s shows Braun gradually turning hi-fi into an architecture of components. MoMA preserves the Audio 1 Radio-Phonograph as a distinct object, but for Rams its relation to speakers, furniture and the room is just as important.

Dieter Rams: Less but Better and Industrial Design

The 606 Universal Shelving System was launched in 1960 and remains in production by Vitsœ. Its core is a set of tracks, shelves, cabinets and tables that can be rearranged and extended rather than freezing the room into one finished composition.

1959
Grace Coddington: Fashion Editor, Narrative Image-Making and Hidden Authorship

In 1959 Coddington won a British Vogue modelling competition and entered the industry from the other side of the camera. At the time, models often carried much of their own practical preparation: makeup, hair, accessories and the logistics of moving between jobs. Her education was physical and procedural rather than theoretical.

Dieter Rams: Less but Better and Industrial Design

The TP 1 of 1959 combined a transistor radio and record player in a portable system. The importance lies not only in compactness, but in the idea of components that work together while retaining a degree of independence. MoMA presents TP 1 as an example of a new mobility in domestic electronics.

1958
John Berger: Ways of Seeing, Art and Politics

Berger's first novel, A Painter of Our Time, appeared in 1958. The British Library preserves several working notebooks for the book, and Verso continues to include it in the core Berger catalogue.

Dieter Rams: Less but Better and Industrial Design

The T3 pocket radio of 1958 looks almost like an abstract diagram: compact rectangle, circular tuning dial, minimum visual signals. MoMA holds it as a Rams work in the context of Hochschule für Gestaltung Ulm and Braun.

1957
Dieter Rams: Less but Better and Industrial Design

Alongside Braun, Rams began designing furniture. In 1957 Otto Zapf asked him to develop furniture for his family company; in 1958 Rams met Niels Vitsœ, and in 1959 Vitsoe+Zapf was founded to realise his furniture designs.

1956
Eames Lounge Chair

Charles and Ray Eames present the Lounge Chair in 1956, combining industrial production and craft quality in a single object.

Dieter Rams: Less but Better and Industrial Design

The SK 4 of 1956 is one of the best tests of attribution. MoMA credits the Radio-Phonograph model SK 4/10 to Dieter Rams and Hans Gugelot. The transparent lid, pale case and clear separation of functions made it visually radical, but the object belongs to a collaboration between Braun and Ulm rather than to one name.

1955
Dieter Rams: Less but Better and Industrial Design

Rams joined Braun in 1955 specifically as an interior architect. Vitsœ preserves an early episode: he presented a sketch for modernising Braun interiors, and on the back wall one can already see the first notion of a track-based wall storage system.

1954
1953
1952
1950
John Berger: Ways of Seeing, Art and Politics

During the 1950s Berger became a prominent art critic and wrote for the New Statesman. The British Library archive preserves substantial runs of his published journalism from this period.

John Berger: Ways of Seeing, Art and Politics

In the 1950s Berger argued sharply against the growing institutional canonisation of Henry Moore and against the idea of modern art as an autonomous succession of great individual geniuses. Tate now treats the conflict as an important part of the history around both figures.

Dieter Rams: Less but Better and Industrial Design

Rams formed his practice in West Germany, where 1950s design was tied not only to a market for new goods but also to a project of cultural reconstruction. The object was expected to distance itself from decorative heaviness and the rhetoric of the past, becoming understandable, contemporary and suited to serial production.

1949
René Gruau: Line, Glamour and Fashion Illustration

The Met holds the House of Dior dress “Gruau” from fall/winter 1949–50 and explicitly states that Dior named it after his friend René Gruau, who provided early advertising illustrations for the house.

1948
Ray Petri: Buffalo Styling and New Masculinity

Ray Petri was born in Dundee in 1948. For fashion history this matters less as a local fact than as a reminder that one of the most influential stylists of 1980s Britain did not emerge from a ready-made London fashion hierarchy. His route passed through migration, music, markets, nightlife and a network of friends before his activity gained a stable professional name.

1947
René Gruau: Line, Glamour and Fashion Illustration

In 1947 Dior presented his first collection and Gruau began a long collaboration with the house. Society of Illustrators and Somerset House connect his graphic work to the wider perception of Dior’s new femininity.

Dieter Rams: Less but Better and Industrial Design

In 1947 Rams entered Wiesbaden School of Arts and Crafts for interior design, then completed a carpentry apprenticeship from 1948 to 1951 before returning to school and graduating as an interior architect. The sequence matters: drawing and space, then resistance from real material, then design again.

1946
René Gruau: Line, Glamour and Fashion Illustration

The Metropolitan Museum of Art holds A New French Style: Eight Models from Pierre Balmain, a 1946 publication illustrated with Gruau lithographs. It establishes his stature before the rise of the House of Dior.

1945
1944
1940
René Gruau: Line, Glamour and Fashion Illustration

In the late 1940s Gruau worked in the United States for Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, while Fleur Cowles brought him into Flair. Society of Illustrators and Vanity Fair note his special position within that short-lived but visually ambitious magazine.

1937
1936
1933
1932
Dieter Rams: Less but Better and Industrial Design

Dieter Rams was born on 20 May 1932 in Wiesbaden. Biographies often recall his carpenter grandfather, but the useful point is not a myth of “correct origins”; it is the early understanding that quality comes from the relationship among material, tool, proportion and use. Before Rams became a symbol of industrial modernism, he knew a world in which an object first had to be well made.

1931
René Gruau: Line, Glamour and Fashion Illustration

Palais Galliera identifies 1931 as the moment Gruau established himself in Paris. He entered an environment where couture, magazines, advertising, theatre and social culture operated within the same city network.

1930
René Gruau: Line, Glamour and Fashion Illustration

During the 1930s and 1940s Gruau worked for Fémina, Marie Claire, L’Officiel de la Mode et de La Couture, Silhouettes and other titles. Palais Galliera specifically records his important role at Silhouettes.

1929
Barcelona Chair

Mies van der Rohe and Lilly Reich design the Barcelona Chair for the German Pavilion at the 1929 World Exhibition.

1928
1927
1926
John Berger: Ways of Seeing, Art and Politics

John Peter Berger was born in London on 5 November 1926. His generation was formed between economic crisis, war and post-war reconstruction, so culture never appeared to him as something outside history.

1925
1924
1922
1920
1919
Баухаус

1919 — Walter Gropius founds the Staatliches Bauhaus in Weimar.

1918
1913
1909
René Gruau: Line, Glamour and Fashion Illustration

René Gruau was born in Rimini on 4 February 1909 as Renato Zavagli Ricciardelli. Italian and museum sources connect him to an aristocratic Italian family through his father and a French line through his mother; professionally he adopted his mother’s surname, Gruau.

1907
1903
1902
1896
1868
1864
1858
1852
1851
1850
1832
1793
1776